Home > Profiles

New Seven-Pitch 5.10d and Two-Pitch 5.7 Bolted Near Canmore

Dark Decade and Battle of Alberta are the newest bolted multi-pitch routes in the Bow Valley. Several others are in the works

Rock Climbing Yamnuska Calgary and Canmore

The Canadian Rockies have a new seven-pitch 5.10d and two-pitch 5.7 that are fully bolted. Both climbs are found in the front range and can be accessed using established trails.

Dark Decade goes at a hard 5.10d and climbs a line Nanny Goat in the Goat Range. For those familiar with the area, it climbs to the left of the winter mixed route Coire Dubh Integrale, and to the right of the well-known bolted rock climb Beautiful Century 5.10. The 190-metre line is described as techy on sharp and featured stone. It requires a 70-metre rope if you’re planning to rappel and you need to bring a dozen quickdraws.

The pitches go at 5.10b, 5.10d, 5.10c, 5.7, 5.10b, 5.10c and 5.10b. The crux second-pitch climbs 25 metres and is described as rising left traverse. The topo, which can be found here, says to climb the pitch: “Overcome a steep wall off the belay using side pulls to pull over a ledge onto good slab. Continuously move up and left until reaching a high bolt where the route jogs harder left. Step up, clipping this with an alpine draw, to stepping back down and then begin a rising leftward traverse with technical movement. End with a ‘no hands’ slab sequence to gain the belay.”

The new two-pitch 5.7 is Battle of Alberta and is on a short wall called West Col Crag. It was discovered thanks to the construction of the West Col Trail that leads to Yamnuska’s west end. When on the West Col Trail, look for a short wall where the path switches from going west to east. The 5.8 crack to the right is called Giddy-Up Corner. Bring eight quickdraws for the bolted line and a single rack for the trad, and hike off to the east from the top.

Always wear a helmet on multi-pitch climbs and don’t climb beneath other teams. For a list of options in the Bow Valley and Kananaskis Country visit here.

Krysten Wiebe on the FA of Battle of Alberta. Photo Brandon Pullan