New V16 Near Classic Dreamtime in Switzerland

Giuliano Cameroni has made the first ascent of REM V16 next to Dreamtime in Cresciano, Switzerland nearly 20 years after the first ascent of the Dreamtime by Fred Nicole. See Cameroni’s 8a.nu scorecard here.

REM starts on Dreamtime and goes left on small crimps past a low percentage crux off two micro holds. Cameroni ticked the problem at 1 a.m. as warm daytime temps prevented good friction conditions.

The problem was first tried by Dave Graham back in 2009, but few have attempted REM since. REM took Cameroni eight sessions since January to piece together. He said it’s one of the hardest routes in Ticino. In February, Cameroni made the first ascent of Poison the Well V16 in Brione.

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REM (8C+)? First ascent of the Dreamtime project, same start and go straight up on small crimps. The crux is a low percentage move off two micro grips. Fell on this move for a month, then took two weeks off the boulder and did it first try at 1AM! Thanks @hanneskutza for the pic and @kray_sean for being there and filming. @scarpaspa @prana @stile_alpino @frictionlabs

A post shared by Giuliano Cameroni (@giuliano_cameroni) on Mar 9, 2019 at 3:02am PST

Cameroni on Deal with the Devil V13