Home > Profiles

New Yosemite Bouldering Guidebook is Out

Over 1,000 problems are detailed in the highly anticipated new guide

Shannon Joslin, James Lucas and Kimbrough Moore have published a new guidebook to bouldering in Yosemite Valley. It has over 1,300 boulder problems and includes seven new areas.

One of the most classic boulder problems in the world is Midnight Lightning in Yosemite. The V8 is found on the Columbia Boulder in Camp 4. The first ascent was by Ron Kauk in 1978; and the first female ascent was by Lynn Hill in 1998.

Sam Moses wrote about the problem in Sports Illustrated in the 1980s and said the most difficult move is a “spider-monkey swing 15 feet (4.6 metres) off the ground. The climber must suspend himself by the fingertips of his left hand, swing around a ledge of rock and propel himself far enough up, about four feet, to grab a precarious fingertip hold with his right hand. To do that he has to create momentum from stillness.”

The problem has an iconic chalk lightning bolt on it that was first drawn on by John Bachar in 1978 while attempting the problem with John Yablonski and Ron Kauk. In May 2013, lightning bolt was scrubbed off the face of the boulde by James Lucas. The bolt was re-drawn in the same location a few days later.

Visit here to order a copy of the new guidebook.

Midnight Lightning