Rock Climbing Weekly #7: Bugaboos, 5.14, Nemo and Quebec Sends
Rock climbing news from across Canada this week, as there's a lot going on
Photo by: Sam Wall
There’s a lot to cover in the world of rock climbing, so we’re bringing it to you in a quick-to-read story that highlights some of the most noteworthy sends and misses of the week. For indoor-only climbing, visit Gripped Indoors and for paddling, camping, skiing and hiking visit Gripped Outdoors.
Rock climbing season across Canada is in full swing, with heat waves and wildfires forces climbers to think carefully about where they’re going to session. In B.C., climbers are heading high to the alpine to escape the hot valleys, or to lakeside crags. At Horne Lake, Alex King sent A Stressful Day at the Office 5.14b, and said, “Awesome movement, a proper hard crux and a headwall harder than you want it to be. As for the comparison to ADATO, they both have terrible names, however this one was a lot harder for me. It feels about right at solid 8c, with ADATO maybe being in the lower end of the same grade. Stoked to get it done.”
In Squamish, a number of popular routes near Slhanay were closed after a big rockfall nearby, read more here. Due to the intense wildfires in B.C., areas like Skaha and Marble Canyon are suffering from smoke warnings and possible evacuations. Many climbers have escaped to the Valhalla Range or Bugaboo Provincial Park, including top sport climbers like Dexter Bateman who recently climbed the classic Beckey/Chouinard on the South Howser.
In Yukon, Thor Stewart and friends are working on developing new climbs at Lake Laberge. About the area, he said, “There are a handful of fully equipped sport routes here ranging from 5.8 to 5.13, most of which are in the 5.11 to 5.12 range. Some are steep jug hauls similar to what you find at Red River Gorge. The hard ones are thin slab mind-bottlers (when your brain gets stuck in a bottle). There are lots of places for FAs and trad multi-pitch repeats along the shoreline. Trad teams will find decent limestone cracks to plug gear in wherever they can conceive. Rumours say that mythic six-pitch trad routes exist at the north end of the lake, near the mouth of the Yukon River.”
In Alberta, Eva Thompson repeated 39 Steps 5.12d at Acephale. Marcus Norman added another climb to the University Crag on McGillivray called Fallen Soldier 5.11c, of which he said, “Pretty good addition to Faculty wall and a decent warmup for the harder stuff here. Bolted in the rain, sent after some cursory brushing. Named after the sorry pine that once stood in front of this line. Located just left of Hammerhead.”
In Banff, Zach Watson made the FA of Blue Curacao 5.13b at a new crag called The Patio, it’s the hardest pitch on Waskahigan Watchi (Rundle). The crag is a 15-minute walk from the car near the Banff golf course and will have a dozen routes by the end of the summer from 5.9 to at least 5.13+.
North near Jasper, Cam Mahler, Sam Wall and Kenzie Beeman have established new bolted lines at Youth Lagoon, including Dawn of the Bee People 5.10b and Red Wine Bandits 5.12c, of which Wall said, “Short, steep, all the holds are great and so is the movement. Permadraws and clip and go anchor for the quick burns.” Youth Lagoon has 25 sport routes, mostly 5.10 and 5.11 on stellar quartzite.
In Ontario, Yves Gravelle released the video of his FA of Carnage V14 which you can watch here. Also in Ontario, Conservation Halton has reopened Mount Nemo and Kelso after over a year of being closed due to Covid, more info here. A new five-pitch 5.11 was added to Riverside Wall near Sudbury, check out the topo here.
New routes are being established in New Brunswick, like Eye Drop 5.9 at Kingston Crag by Sam Jones and Rafe Keirstead: “It climbs a short arete past three bolts to an anchor. Cool position, fun little climb. Be sure to try 5.10eh next to it as well.” And Greg Huges added Wabanaki 5.8 to Minkey Wall at Cochrane Lane.
In Quebec, a few videos were released of some hard sends. One being David Rae’s of Le Chevalet V13; and the other is of Yann Gauthier on Fakir 5.12c at Tranchant, a route equipped by Guy Parent and freed by Eric Leclerc in 2020.
Weekly Updates: Ice Season 2020/21, Rock 1, Rock 2, Rock 3, Rock 4, Rock 5, Rock 6
Access: Be sure to follow your local access group: Squamish, Kootenays, Alberta, Ontario, Quebec, Nova Scotia, Newfoundland. For tips on how to be a good steward of the land visit here.
Gear and Tips: For spring rock climbing gear, check out the best climbing harnesses for 2021, best crack gloves and the best cams for 2021. Here are the seven best hiking boots for this year. For safety, here are five reasons to wear a helmet, tips to be a better bouldering spotter and 10 tips for a more fun spring. Always wear a helmet!
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