Maarten van Haeren and Jas Fauteux travelled from the Canadian Rockies to remote northern Quebec to find some big ice and mixed routes. This isn’t their first time to La belle province and have climbed a number of classics over the past few years.
They repeated some hard routes and have established a couple stunning looking lines, the most recent being The Cod Delusion, a 105-metre M6+ WI6 on the Sault-aux-Cochons. If you know your mixed climbing in Canada, you’ll know that this is name play with a route called The God Delusion M8+ WI5 110m on Stanley Headwall in the Canadian Rockies, first climbed by Raphael Slawinski.
The Rockies duo have also climbed a new route they called Retour aux Sources M6 WI5 195m with no pins or bolts. Be sure to follow van Haeren and Fauteux below for more rad shots. A few days before van Haeren left for Quebec, he presented about classic grade V Rockies alpine routes, for The Bow Valley Mountain Club, visit here for upcoming shoes.
Well, that became real pretty quick. @mvanhaeren minutes before buidling a nest of questionable gear and going for a little bit of airtime. Thanks for the pro tip @jon.walsh Nice lead buddy 💪 Another new route, this one with A0 for the airtime. #quebecice #neice #charlevoix #hautegorgesdelamalbaie #escaladequebec
Another great climbing day from last week on the Sault-aux-Cochons. Three pitches of interesting climbing, one bolt off the deck to protect the lack of gear, but traditionally protected the rest of the way! We’ve named the route after a mythical route on the Stanley Headwall (The God Delusion), instead calling it the Cod Delusion (M6+ WI6 105m), only slightly poking fun at my nickname. Thanks @jpbelangerwi5 and @charlesroberge for sharing their local knowledge (and skidoo!). Big shout out to @verti_call and their @totemmt cams, again and again protecting the cruxes! . . If you’re keen to learn some of these skills, I’m running a course based out of Quebec city March 2-3. Perfect course for those who are looking to improve their ice climbing, or start leading themselves! DM me for more info, or check out my website (link in profile). . P1: @jasfauteux on the well protected start of P2, tool torques with slabby feet! P2: After traversing behind the main pillar, pulling a Haffner Creek style roof, with two Totem cams in the roof P3: overview of the Cod Delusion