Royal Robbins: The American Climber and Yosemite Legend, a Book Review

In Dehumanization of Art and Other Essays, the Spanish philosopher Jose Ortegȃ y Gasset wrote, “Biography is a system in which the contradictions of a human life are unified.” It’s been said that Ortegȃ’s own works were like an iceberg; that which was visible above the water, and all that mass beneath the surface of it. I cannot think of a more fitting metaphor to describe the subject covered, the challenge undertaken, and the outcome achieved, by accomplished author David Smart in this exciting new biography of the legendary climber Royal Robbins who passed away in 2017 at the age of 82.

To gather the story of an important life in such a way that care, attention, veracity and readability are evident to the reader – this should be the goal of the concerned biographer. The best writing helps us make sense not only of the character presented, but of something in ourselves that can be recognized in the telling.

It must have been a daunting task for Smart to do this when revealing the story of Robbins. He was a man known for laser focus and will, and unarguably one of the most important figures who will ever exist in the entire history of climbing. The architect behind many of our sport’s breakthrough moments, in Yosemite and abroad, he shaped the future. Outside of climbing, Robbins enjoyed success in kayaking and the outdoor clothing business. And he had a long and loving marriage and partnership with his wife, Liz. Yet he also seemed to simultaneously struggle with contradictions, many likely the result of his fractured past: The desire for conformity and security against the fear of losing freedom; an aloofness with a want of acceptance. In the book, Smart writes, “Out in the wider world, when the task wasn’t climbing, there seemed to be something frail about Royal” and as we hear details of Robbins’ adventures, Smart always explores this tension brilliantly.

Readers will quickly know that they are in the hands of an expert storyteller – Smart has proven himself before with his award-winning books on Paul Preuss (2019) and Emilio Comici (2020), and it is clear that he has a genuine fascination with the lives of some of the most powerful yet enigmatic climbing figures of the twentieth century. “The history of climbing is driven by all of the climbers, not just the big names,” Smart told me, “But just as in art and music, certain figures emerge who influence everyone, who don’t just climb harder, but who see climbing and what they climb in different ways that end up resonating with everyone. The next person after Comici who did that was Robbins.”

One cannot argue with that. I suspect, however, that it is not just the historical continuity which interests Smart, but the aforementioned societal context and dichotomies of Robbins’ complicated life. The result of all this is that we have exciting history with a human quality, and genuine honesty of content and inquiry. And the staggering amount of research (complete with detailed references) speaks to Smart’s commitment to respectful authenticity.

I predict that Royal Robbins: The American Climber will become a timeless classic in the world of climbing literature; I found it incredibly moving. As Ortegȃ said, “The poet begins where the man ends.” David Smart, as a master biographer, has succeeded in unifying Robbins’ life with grace and power.

Smart will be speaking about the development of his book and Robbins in Yosemite this weekend, for a schedule of dates see here. He will also be speaking at the Banff Mountain Festival, which runs from Oct. 28 to Nov. 5. And if you’re looking for a copy of Royal Robbins: The American Climber visit here.