Sean Bailey has sent Joe Mama 5.15a in Oliana, Spain, an old project Joe Kinder project that was first climbed by Klemen Becan. Bailey’s first 5.15 was back in 2016 with Biographie in France during World Cup circuit.
Bailey told Rock and Ice after Biographie, “When I was 13 and I was just getting psyched on climbing, I found the old footage of Chris [climbing Biographie]. I watched it, and just thought it was awesome. I got so stoked.”
In March of that year, Bailey won the USA Climbing Sport National Championships. “The long-term goals for me definitely focus on climbing. There aren’t a lot young dudes and gals focusing on climbing in the U.S., so this has been a big stepping stone for me, very validating,” he said.
“Finishing Biographie has definitely opened my eyes to new possibilities. I think I’m definitely going to try some other routes of the same calibre.”
Since then, he became the highest-ranked American male in 2017 IFSC Vail Bouldering World Cup and took first place in the USA Climbing 2018 Sport National Championship. He’s also made it to IFSC World Cup finals three times.
“If you’re in the finals, you can be pretty much as successful as anyone else,” he said. “I like to use that as something to be happy about.” At 17, Bailey took first in his category at the American Bouldering Series and the Sport Climbing Series Youth National Championships.
The 22-year-old is well on his way to being one of the top climbers in the world and is currently ranked 17th in the world cup ranking.