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Simon Lorenzi Climbs His Second V17 With Alphane

This is the fourth ascent of Alphane since the first ascent this spring by Shawn Raboutou

Simon Lorenzi, 25, has repeated Alphane in Chironico after several sessions this year, making him one of only two climbers to have climbed two V17 problems. This is the fourth ascent of Alphane.

It was first climbed by Shawn Raboutou in Spring 2022 and was given the proposed grade of V17. It was then repeated by Aidan Roberts and Will Bosi. About the grade, Bosi said, “In terms of a grade, I personally felt that Honey Badger V16 was more of a challenge for me and proposing a grade for that at the time was daunting as it was my first V16. At the cutting edge of climbing, grading feels so much more difficult as the margins are that much finer and personal strengths and preferences really come into play. Is it 9A? Honestly, I do not know and as I gain more experience of climbing around this grade range I may have a better view, but it is a fantastic line established by Shawn and I look forward to seeing more experienced climbers comment on where the grade sits.”

Soudain Seul, first established by Simon Lorenzi in Fontainebleau, was originally proposed V17, then was downgraded by Pelorson in 2021. Camille Coudert made the third ascent and said he thinks it’s a soft V17. Several climbs have been graded V17, but most have been downgraded.

Nalle Hukkataival’s Burden of Dreams in Finland and Daniel Woods’s Return of the Sleepwalker at Red Rocks are both suggested V17s but neither has been repeated. In 2018, Charles Albert made the first ascent of No Kapote at V17 but it was downgraded to V15/16 by Nico Pelorson. Also this year, Raboutou made the first ascent of Megatron at V17.

Only Raboutou and Lorenzi have climbed two problems which have been graded V17 – whether they both stay V17 is anyone’s guess. Raboutou recently tried Burden of Dreams – watch a video here.

Alphane FA