Sonnie Trotter, Alex Honnold and Tommy Caldwell Race to Climb 5.14d
A new documentary by Simon Yamamoto features the three climbers all vying to climb 5.14d before the others
In August 2023, three friends – Sonnie Trotter, Alex Honnold and Tommy Caldwell – made a gentlemen’s challenge to see who could climb 5.14d (9a) the fastest.
In June 2024, Trotter succeeded with an ascent of one of Canada’s most difficult sport routes – Spirit Quest 5.14d at the Paradise Wall just outside of Squamish. Spirit Quest is a direct start variation of Spirit of the West 5.14a. The climbing is physical, technical, and relentless, linking directly into the crux of Spirit of the West with no rest in between.
Spirit Quest was Trotter’s first 5.14d since 2015, when he repointed Estado Critico 5.14d in Siurana, Spain. His first-ever 5.14d was in 2004 with his first ascent of Forever Expired in Lion’s Head, Ontario. It remains unrepeated and one of Ontario’s hardest routes. Trotter, 45, is most well-known for his trad climbing accomplishments, including first ascents of Cobra Crack 5.14b in Squamish and The Path 5.14aR in Lake Louise and the first repeat of Dave MacLeod’s Rhapsody 5.14X.
The film, which was made by Simon Yamamoto, who’s had photos appear on the cover of Gripped, reads, “In September 2023 when the summer was over, the three friends got to work. They began training as hard as ever, projecting, climbing, and texting about their progress, as well as their struggles and setbacks. Follow Alex Honnold, Tommy Caldwell and Sonnie Trotter, as they share their thoughts on juggling family, work, and their process of difficult redpoint climbing.”
Race to 9a
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