This is a short clip documenting Sonnie Trotter’s first ascent of Family Man 5.14 in Skaha back in 2014.
As Trotter said, “For me, this climb was as much about getting outside with my family, as it was about trying hard. So, Thanks to everyone who helped make this ascent come to life. She’s a real gem.”
The route has only been repeated by Ben Harnden in 2016. It’s nearly spring, which is the best time of year for Skaha climbing. In fall 2018, Trotter climbed Pineapple Express, a new 5.13b/c variation on El Capitan in nealry 30 pitches.
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Looking back at this year, it all comes down to this; ‘Pineapple Express’ 5.13b/c – First Free Ascent on Nov 19th, in a 13 hour push, leading every pitch. Sometimes I still can’t believe it all happened, and only 4 days after turning 39😉. Seriously though, dropping into the Valley this season with my family and our 1998 Scamp Trailer I was really, really hoping to finally climb this route (with or without @alexhonnold ) but in the back of my mind I had a feeling it would take a miracle. On the phone with @tommycaldwell the night before the climb I had the same feeling, we were all getting run down with head colds and sore throats, and with the imminent snow storm quickly approaching I knew this would be my one and only attempt. I told him how nervous I was, and he said “yeah, you should be” and laughed, but continued…“that’s the way I feel before every big push” naturally, his words were more comforting than troubling. Like usual, Tommy was an absolute machine on this day, jugging every pitch with a heavy pack, cleaning, reverse aiding, swinging, hauling, and yelling words of encouragement that I could feel in my bones. This year has been one for the books, a multi year dream. I’m currently writing a piece for @climbingmagazine about this wall and its magnificent history. I’ll be happy to share the word when it comes out on newsstands. As well as a more detailed topo. Happy New Year everyone. Thanks for the Photo: @austin_siadak 💥