Big 5.13 Climbed in Memory of Hansjorg Auer
Sense Retorn is nine-pitch adventure up steep limestone in Spain
Sense Retorn is a nine-pitch 5.13 on Mont Rebei in Spain established by Roger Molina, Siebe Vanhee and Jorge Solórzano in memory of Hansjörg Auer back in 2019. A new film has been released about the first ascent. Sense Retorn translates to “no turning back.” Auer died alongside Jess Roskelley and David Lama on Howse Peak in the Canadian Rockies in mid-April after an avalanche swept them off the north face.
It took the first ascent team 10 days in April and they climbed it ground-up through sections of loose and solid rock. The protection is mixed with hooks, pitons and the odd bolt. Vanhee said, “Some of the pitches are entirely clean (of protection) and climb exposed pieces of rock. Some poor rock quality alternate with magical pieces of solid rock. It’s the line we had hoped for, respecting the pure ethics and culture of Mont Rebei.
“Which is ground-up climbing using removable protection like friends, nuts and slings as well as the use of a hammer and pitons while opening the route. Some pitches have bolts for when it was really impossible to climb on removable protection. Free climbing and onsighting on virgin terrain in this style is what I dreamed off.” Sense Retorn climbs up a steep section of Pared Cataluna near the test-piece Manolo Primera El Grande, a 365-metre 5.10 A3+.
Sense Retorn FA
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