Sense Retorn is a new nine-pitch 5.13 on Mont Rebei in Spain established by Roger Molina, Siebe Vanhee and Jorge Solórzano in memory of Hansjorg Auer. Sense Retorn translates to “no turning back.” Auer died alongside Jess Roskelley and David Lama on Howse Peak in the Canadian Rockies in mid-April after an avalanche swept them off the north face.
It took the first ascent team 10 days in April and they climbed it ground-up through sections of loose and solid rock. The protection is mixed with hooks, pitons and the odd bolt. Vanhee said, “Some of the pitches are entirely clean (of protection) and climb exposed pieces of rock. Some poor rock quality alternate with magical pieces of solid rock. It’s the line we had hoped for, respecting the pure ethics and culture of Mont Rebei.
“Which is ground-up climbing using removable protection like friends, nuts and slings as well as the use of a hammer and pitons while opening the route. Some pitches have bolts for when it was really impossible to climb on removable protection. Free climbing and onsighting on virgin terrain in this style is what I dreamed off.” Sense Retorn climbed up a steep section of Pared Cataluna, which has other routes such as Manolo Primera El Grande, a 365-metre 5.10 A3+.
View this post on Instagram
* Just the beauty of the #mountain! * In this picture the pure 7c+ pitch at the end of ’SENSE RETORN’ in #montrebei. A 25m weakness with many holds to climb and perfect, but small, removable protection. Incredible to climb a line and leave it clean for furture repetitions! Can’t wait for next adventures like this! 📸 @davidlopezcampe #neverstopexploring #lasportiva #foryourmountain #weareclimbers #climbing #rockclimbing #sportclimbing #escalade #klettern #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #grimper #escalade #traveling #travels #escalar #climbingcataluña #escalada #multilargo #multipitch #tradclimbing #firstascent #totemcams #views #amazingview #action #bigwall #photography #climbingphotography #climbingphotographer @thenorthface @thenorthface_climb @thenorthfaceuk @thenorthfacede @petzl_official @lasportivagram @avventuraoutdoor @totemmt @climbskinspain @frigyesvandenauweele @sportpraktijk @klimclubhungariavzw
View this post on Instagram
FA and FFA of “SENSE RETORN” – “No Turning Back” – Homage to @hansjoergauer 🇪🇸 En Castellano abajo en los commentarios👇 I can’t think of a way more beautiful to remember Hansjörg… climbing. “If climbing is the thing that makes you happy in life, well do it and live that life” (Hansjörg would state). SENSE RETORN is the new route on ‘Pared de Catalunya’ in #montrebei , Spain. Opened ground-up in 4 days (27/04 – 30/04) together with Spanish maquinas Roger Molina and Jorge Solórzano. I managed to freeclimb the 9 pitches in one day (05/05) with a minimum of bolts and a maximum of removable protection and pitons. The whole free ascent I was supported by Catalan climber @miquel.mas . Two 7c+ pitches on adventurous terrain (read: loose and sometimes hard to protect) make this climb a big challenge! Also the mid 7th grade pitches provide a pure mental challenge. Some of the pitches are entirely clean (of protection) and climb exposed pieces of rock! Some poor rock quality alternate with magical pieces of solid rock. It’s the line we had hoped for, respecting the pure ethics and culture of Montrebei. Which is ground-up climbing using removable protection like friends, nuts and slings as well as the use of a hammer and pitons while opening the route. Some pitches have bolts for when it was really impossible to climb on removable protection. Freeclimbing and onsighting on virgin terrain in this style is what I dreamed off! Because of the pure character of the climb, the intense moment in my life with the loss of a good friend and climbing partner, we (Roger, Jorge and myself) dedicate this climb to Hansjörg. ‘Sense Retorn’ is the Catalan expression for ‘Without Return’, a free translation of Hansjörgs latest movie ‘No Turning Back’. His movie is pure, true and sincere, all the things the new route requires to be climbed. Freeclimbing SENSE RETORN gives no option to return, the only way is up! This is also the message I want to give to all fellow climbers who lost a friend. Sit still, mourn and climb on with your friend in your heart. 📸 @davidlopezcampe This post continues in comments…👇