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Throwback to Florine and Hirayama’s Nose Records

Hans Florine and Yuji Hirayama celebrate on the summit of El Capitan on Oct. 28, 2008 after their 2:37:05 record Photo Paul Hara

The race to have the fastest time up the most famous rock climbing in the world has been going on since 1975.

The Nose became the focus of big wall speed climbing back in 1975 when Jim Bridwell, John Long and Billy Westbay made the first one-day ascent in 17 hours and 45 minutes.

The current fastest time was set by Jim Reynolds and Brad Gobright at 2:19:44.

And 2018 marks a decade since Yuji Hirayama last held the record with Hans Florine.

Florine has held the speed record nine times, his last with was Alex Honnold in 2012 at 2:23:46.

Before Honnold, Florine held three records up the massive granite prow with Hirayama.

Their first was in 2002 at 2:48:55, then in July of 2008 at 2:43:33 and finally that fall at 2:37:45.

In 2008, Hirayama was asked if their time was the fastest possible by Planetmountain.com and he said, “Yeah…for the time being I think so.

“You know, this time I just wanted to train on a big wall. We only had 11 days together this June, my real plan is to make a new record this September. It was fun though, the American mass media was so interested about the Nose Speed ascent, it was incredible.

“Every time we attempted the climb they came to watch and then they asked me to try again to break the record again. The mood was totally exciting, even people from Yosemite were interested in this new time.”

The first ascent was by Warren Harding, Wayne Merry and George Whitmore in 1958 after 47 days. The first free ascent was in 1993 by Lynn Hill at 5.14a.

Watch Hirayama and Florine’s spring 2008 spreed record climbing in Masters of Stone V in the following two clips.

42 Years of The Nose Records
2018-6-6: Tommy Caldwell, Alex Honnold in 1:58:07
2018-6-4: Tommy Caldwell, Alex Honnold in 2:01:50
2018-5-30: Tommy Caldwell, Alex Honnold in 2:10:15
2017-10-21: Jim Reynolds, Brad Gobright in 2:19:44
2012-6-17: Hans Florine, Alex Honnold in 2:23:46
2017-10-10: Jim Reynolds, Brad Gobright in 2:34:30
2010-11-6: Dean Potter, Sean Leary in 2:36:45
2008-10-12: Hans Florine, Yuji Hirayama in 2:37:05
2008-7-2: Hans Florine, Yuji Hirayama in 2:43:33
2007-10-8: Alexander and Thomas Huber in 2:45:45
2007-10-4: Alexander and Thomas Huber in 2:48:30
2002-9-29: Hans Florine, Yuji Hirayama in 2:48:55
2001-11: Dean Potter, Timmy O’Neill in 3:24:20
2001-10: Hans Florine, Jim Herson in 3:57:27
2001-10: Dean Potter, Timmy O’Neill in 3:59:35
1992: Hans Florine, Peter Croft in 4:22
1991:Peter Croft, Dave Schultz in 4:48
1991: Hans Florine, Andres Puhvel in 6:01
1990: Peter Croft, Dave Schultz in 6:40
1990: Hans Florine, Steve Schneider in 8:06
1986: John Bachar, Peter Croft in 10:05
1984: Duncan Critchley, Romain Vogler in 09:30 (approximate)
1975: Jim Bridwell, John Long, Billy Westbay in 17:45

The Nose on El Capitan