Watch Alex Fricker climb the only established route at the University Wall in the Rockies called Sphinx 5.13d. “The wall will house upwards of a dozen more routes 5.14 and up, if anyone can climb them.”
The wall is located up a slot canyon between Mount McGillivray and Pigeon Mountain near Lac Des Arcs east of Canmore. The canyon has been used for decades as a sort of adventure course with ladders and fixed chains. University Wall is located at the top of the canyon.
The routes were mostly bolted by the late Simon Parboosing and abandoned after his death. A flood in 2013 lowered the starts by a few metres, which has made some of the opening moves up to V11. Miles Adamson started to bring attention back to the crag last year and made this film of Fricker this summer.
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After the torrential rains I managed to scrap together a decent end of July. Happy to have sent Sphinx, 5.13d (After some consideration @miles_adamson and I agreed that it is more 13d than 13c). Also really stoked to have got my hardest flash to date, Naissance de la Femme 5.13b. Between the rain, work and a few little injuries I haven’t had as many days on Prime Time as I would have hoped. Fingers crossed for less rain, less seepage and happier knees for a few hail mary goes before I head back to school! • • • 📷: @miles_adamson @sattvaclimbing @allezupmtl #sattvaclimbing #sendandinspire #sattvaclimbingathlete #allezup #allezupmtl #teamallezup #climbing #sportclimbing #goawayrain #lettheholdsdry