Watch Doug Scott Talk About Surviving Ogre and Everest
Mountaineer Doug Scott talks about climbing Everest by its hardest route, surviving an agonising eight-day crawl down The Ogre with two broken legs and how a night in Glen Coe gave him the confidence to conduct the world’s highest unplanned bivouac.
Scott is regarded as one of the world’s leading high altitude and big wall climbers. Apart from his first ascent of the southwest face of Everest with Haston, all his other Himalayan climbs were achieved in lightweight or pure Alpine style.
He pioneered big wall climbing on Baffin Island, Mount Kenya and in the Karakoram, famously on The Ogre with Chris Bonington and later on Shivling in the Indian Himal.
In 1977, mountaineer Doug Scott broke both his legs while descending the Ogre, an infamous Himalayan peak. It required very serious technical climbing at high altitude. Scott managed to reach the summit, but during the descent he slipped on the ice, swung like a pendulum on his rope and smashed both legs. His climbing partner, Chris Bonington, was also injured. Bonington was able to help Doug down initially, but he too had a fall on the descent that broke some ribs, and he developed pulmonary edema. He was in bad shape. Scott spent nine days crawling down the Ogre without food or painkillers, before a group of comrades managed to rescue the two men. The story didn’t emerge at the time, partly because Scott was ashamed about what happened. #badass #alpine #mountain #climbing #legend
Scott’s Big Climbs
1965: Tarso Tiroko, Tibesti mountains of Chad with Ray Gillies, Clive Davies and Pete Warrington
1967: South face of Koh-i-Bandaka, Hindu Kush with Ray Gillies
1970: Salathe Wall of El Capitan with Peter Habeler
1972: Mount Asgard, Baffin Island with Dennis Hennek, Paul Nunn and Paul Braithwaite
1974: Changabang, first ascent with Bonington, Haston et al
1974: Pic Lenin, Pamirs, with Clive Rowland, Guy Lee, Braithwaite
1975: Southwest face of Everest, with Haston
1976: South face Denali, Alaska, with Haston
1977: Baintha Brakk (more commonly known as The Ogre), Karakoram, with Bonington, and descent with both legs broken at the ankle with the selfless help of Mo Anthoine and Clive Rowland
1978: Mount Waddington, Canada, with Rob Wood
1979: North ridge of Kangchenjunga, with Pete Boardman and Jo Tasker.
1979: Nuptse, North face, Nepal, with Georges Bettembourg, Brian Hall and Alan Rouse
1981: Shivling, India, with Bettemboug, Greg Child and Rick White
1982: Shishapangma, Tibet, south face, with Alex MacIntyre and Roger Baxter-Jones
1983: Lobsang Spire, Karakoram, with Child and Peter Thexton
1984: Chamlang, East ridge, Nepal, with Michael Scott, Jean Afanassieff and Ang Phurba
1988: Jitchu Drake, Bhutan, with Prabhu and Victor Saunders
1992: Nanga Parbat, Central Mazeno peaks, with Sergey Efimov, Alan Hinkes, Ang Phurba and Nga Temba.
1998: Drohmo, South pillar, Nepal, with Roger Mear
2000: Targo Ri, Central Tibet, with Julian Freeman-Attwood and Richard Cowper