In this short film, Madaleine Sorkin talks about her journey to climb The Honeymoon Is Over 5.13c on Long’s Peak in 2016.
The first ascent of the nine-pitch route was by Tommy Caldwell in 2001, but the route was bolted by Eric Doub in the 1990s.
Originally graded VI- 5.10 A3+, it was the hardest route on the Diamond. The second ascent was in 2012 by Jon Siegrist after a number of working sessions.
The route starts up a 5.6 and 5.9 pitch before heading into two pitches of Eroica at 5.11b and 5.11d.
After that, you have a 5.13b, 5.13c, 5.13a, 5.13a and 5.12b. Siegrist said the crux was about 15 metres of “ultra-techy, right-facing dihedral, with a few opportunities for fingers… feet on dime edges… and body tension.”
The third ascent was by Joe Mills and the fourth by Josh Wharton. Sorkin was the first woman to send the demanding line.