Watch Stephan Vogt’s Two-Finger Dyno on Action Directe

Stephan Vogt spent over 20 days in a span of five years projecting one the most famous sport routes. Watch the Frankenjura send below.

It’s often acknowledged as the world’s first 5.14d, Wolfgang Güllich actually gave the route a UIAA grade of XI.

Action Directe (9a) It still feels so unreal! One of my biggest dreams have come true! Thanks to everyone who supported and inspired me along the way! #madrockeurope #madrock #nihilclimbing #bertablock #teambertablock #rockclimbing #wolfganggüllich #actiondirecte #frankenjura @kilifish Picture by Vaidotas Monstavičius

A post shared by Stephan Vogt (@stephan_vogt1) on Apr 6, 2017 at 10:24am PDT

It’s considered by many to be something of a benchmark for the grade. It’s also famous for its style, involving long dynamic moves off mono pockets.

Güllich invented the campus board to train the specific strength needed for it.

Milan Sykora bolted this line in the 1980s with a different start. Güllich climbed it in 1991. He used a 16-move sequence and a more direct start with a dynamic jump into a two-finger pocket.

Dai Koyamada used a different sequence with only 11 moves.

List of Known Repeats
– Alexander Adler on Sept. 9, 1995
– Iker Pou on June 7, 2000
– Dave Graham on May 21, 2001
– Christian Bindhammer on May 24, 2003
– Rich Simpson (some have doubted) on Oct. 13, 2005
– Dai Koyamada on Oct. 15, 2005
– Markus Bock on Oct. 22, 2005
– Kilian Fischhuber on Sept. 25, 2006
– Adam Ondra on May 19, 2008
– Patxi Usobiaga on Oct. 24, 2008
– Gabriele Moroni on April 17, 2010
– Jan Hojer on May 22, 2010
– Adam Pustelnik on Oct. 10, 2010
– Felix Knaub on Oct. 22, 2011
– Rustam Gelmanov on March 26, 2012
– Alexander Megos on May 3, 2014
– Felix Neumärker on May 16, 2015
– Julius Westphal on June 25, 2015
– Stefano Carnati in 2016
– David Firnenburg in 2016
– Stephan Vogt in 2017
– Simon Lorenzi in 2017