Home > Profiles

Watch Zangerl and Larcher Send El Cap’s Magic Mushroom

Babsi Zangerl on Magic Mushroom VI 5.14 Photo Jon Glassberg

On Dec. 10, 2017, Austrian Babsi Zangerl and South Tyrolean Jacopo Larcher claimed the coveted second ascent of Magic Mushroom, El Cap’s second hardest route.

In 2016, the pair freed Zodiac 5.13 and in 2015 they climbed El Nino 5.13, both on El Cap.

Magic Mushroom is left of The Nose and was first ascended with the use of aid in 1972 by Canadians Hugh Burton and Steve Sutton.

It was freed in May 2012 by Tommy Caldwell and Justen Sjong with difficulties up to VI 5.14a.

A month later, Caldwell led all pitches free in a sub 24 hour push. Check out this film capturing their ascent of the massive grade-six 5.14a.

Zangerl and Larcher spent 11 days making their ascent and sung leads on the easier pitches and then both led all harder pitches.

Check out the latest buyer's guide:

The Best Climbing Gear According to Our Editors – April

Every month we're bringing you our favourite gear so you can complete your climbing kit with the latest and best stuff out there