April 2018 Starts with Hard Boulder and Sport News
Spring has just started, but already there’s lots of big bouldering news.
Top boulderer Isabelle Faus made the first female ascent of Delusion of Grandeur V13 in Chironico. On the same day, she went and made a quick ascent of Electric Ant V12.
This month, shes also sent Second Life V12, which she noted on 8a.nu, “First try second day, thought I would be able to do this quick, but its super long and the end gets hard.
“The first day was a bit cold and I kept numbing out, but yesterday was warm and it felt a lot better.”
Over the past year, Nathaniel Coleman has been spending time in-between competitions developing a new bouldering area in central Utah.
The culmination of this development has lead to his recent ascent of the areas hardest boulder problem Power of the Psych V14.
In St. Leger, France, Gerome Pouvreau made the third ascent of Supercrackinette 5.15a, which Adam Ondra recently flashed.
Pouvreau worked on the climb in 2017, which was first climbed by Alex Megos. FanaticClimbing reported he said, “For the garde, after the two amazing guys who have sent the line before me, nothing to add. A huge congrats to Adam for his flash, it’s very nice for our sport, and it’s also fascinating how he combines waiting, observation, projecting, sending. Hats off!”
Over in Achleiten, Roland Hemetzberger made the first ascent of Mantra 5.14d which he bolted nearly a decade ago.
Watch Hemetzberger make the first ascent of Nebuchadnezzar, New Zealand’s first 5.14d.
In China, Edu Marin continues work on his massive route up the Getu cave. This will be one wild route.
Marin’s Valhalla project climbs about 400 metres overhanging limestone which he is bolting ground-up.
Murin said the project is, “The largest roof in the world and one of the most beautiful lines ever.”
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