A seven-pitch 5.11d bolted route was added to the Stanley Headwall back in 2015 and it offers up a big adventure. The Stanley Headwall in British Columbia is known for its winter mixed and ice climbs. It has been featured countless times in guidebooks, magazine and in films for its winter climbs.

While there have been a handful of bolted and traditional summer lines established, Arch Enemy 5.11d is the only fully-bolted route up the wall. It starts 50 metres right of the famous ice climb Nemesis WI6.

Initial work on Arch Enemy started in 2012 with Jovan Simic and Erik Schnack piecing it together. They climbed it in 2014, but used some aid on the fourth pitch. In the summer of 2015, Simic showed the route to Calgary crusher Matt Lucas, who pieced together the technical slab at 5.11d.

"Here's Regen Waldman stemming up the beautiful open book corner on the first crux pitch. Between almost freezing temps, spray from a nearby waterfall and huge pieces of ice crashing down around us, this is one we'll remember for a while." - Matt Lucas
“Here’s Regen Waldman stemming up the beautiful open book corner on the first crux pitch. Between almost freezing temps, spray from a nearby waterfall and huge pieces of ice crashing down around us, this is one we’ll remember for a while.” – Matt Lucas

“Another thing worth noting is that the climb can get some spray on the upper two pitches during warm summer days from Nemesis,” said Simic. “I’ve spent quite a lot of days on it and the spray seems to start around 3 p.m. (like clock work). So, best to get up early and climb it or pick a cooler day.”

You need 14 draws and can rap the route with two 70-metre ropes or walk off to the left.

The topo for Arch Enemy 5.11d on the Stanley Headwall, 50 metres right of Nemesis WI6. Photo/Topo Jovan Simic
The topo for Arch Enemy 5.11d on the Stanley Headwall, 50 metres right of Nemesis WI6. Photo/Topo Jovan Simic

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