Home > Routes

Climbing Mouses Tooth: Splitter West Coast Alpine Route

This is one of the best granite alpine climbs along the Duffy Lake Road north of Whistler

Nic Vissers and Ryan Larkin recently made an ascent of the Mouses Tooth up North Joffre Creek near Pemberton, B.C. The remote 11-pitch 5.11 starts with a 5.10d that has a steep crux. The following pitches become more and more splitter until a perfect hand crack that climbs a full pitch above a small roof.

From there, a thin hard-to-protect crack leads to a ledge. Easier pitches lead to the top of the feature. Some call it the best alpine rock climb on the West Coast, which has led to regular traffic over the past few years.

Kinley Aitken on Mouses Tooth 5.11, B.C. Photo Brandon Pullan

Mouses Tooth