Emma Twyford’s has sent The Big Issue (E9 6c) at Pembroke, which roughly translates to 5.13bR.
She screamed through the 5.13 crux and placed her gear on lead, all except a tied-off piton.
She told her sponsor DMM, “Today was the best conditions I’ve had on it this year and it was still far from ideal. I was over-gripping on the greasy holds and got really pumped.
“This bit of crag is as fickle as Lower Pen Trwyn for getting it in good nick. I’d top-roped it cleanly for the first time last weekend so I knew I was in with a chance.”
She first tried the route ground up in 2017, but after a couple of sessions couldn’t get the crux moves, so opted to check it out from above.
Twyford is one of the best British climbers in the scene today and has flashed both E7 and F8a, headpointed E9 and redpointed F8b+/c. Born in Exeter in 1986, she grew up in the Lakes close to the crags where her dad started her climbing at a young age.
“My Dad and his friends from the Mountain Rescue team took me climbing,” she said. “I used to swing on the trees at the bottom and they took me up some easy multi-pitch climbs at Shepherds Crag in Borrowdale. I got hooked pretty quickly.”
It’s important to enjoy the climbs you choose to do whilst trying hard! I have my game face and my savour the moment and be happy face. Big issue (e9 6c) is one of the most aesthetic and iconic lines in Pembroke I have ever climbed. Having come close last year with the gear in I decided to try it this year placing the gear apart from having the peg tied off. The location is truly special and intimidating but more than anything I’ve really enjoyed the process of trying this route and the camaraderie with @madeleine_cope @simonrawlinson @rfrugtniet and @matt_helliker. It’s so fickle for conditions but it makes the challenge more entertaining! Thank you @matt_helliker for the patient belay and @j.bunney for the 📸 @patagonia_climb @patagonia @patagoniaeurope @dmm_wales @scarpa_uk @climbskinspain @frictionlabs