First Female Ascent in Oliana
On Saturday Nov. 1, Polish climber Aleksandra Taistra clipped the anchors on Humildes Pa Casa 8b+ (5.14a). The famous tufa route was downgraded from 5.14b after being onsighted by by Chris Sharma and Maja Vidmar.
Taistra became the first female to climb the route and said, ‘”I didn’t really plan to climb it, but I arrived in Oliana quite tired and not feeling fit. This route is pumpy and knacky, and seemed like a good training ground. It can also be a bit scary. The temps were high but I was trying it regardless just to regain my fitness.”
Taistra is an experienced coach and is currently visiting Spain with her friend and one of the athletes she mentors, Nina Gmiter. As soon as the conditions improved and Taistra sent Humildes Pa Casa, Gmiter managed her first 5.14b, Fish Eye, previously also climbed by Taistra. Now with colder temps they are planning on trying more other projects.
–Gripped was reached by Zofia A. Reych from www.upthatrock.com