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For the Tick-List: Mr. Rogers Smokes a Fat One at Lake Louise

It's the pumpiest sport route you'll ever climb at the grade. Described as the hardest 5.11b with no no moves

Photo by: Andrew Funk of Becca Frangos

Back of the Lake at Lake Louise has some of the best single-pitch rock climbs in the Canadian Rockies, thanks to the nature of the compact quartzite. There are dozens of classics from 5.6 to 5.14, but one of the pumpiest at the grade is Mr. Rogers Smokes a Fat One.

At 5.11b, the steep route follows cracks and slopers up the esthetic Air Voyage Wall. It was originally climbed on trad gear by Joe Buzowski in 1986, but later retro-bolted by him and others who established routes at the crag, to be safer. It is still sometimes climbed on gear.

It starts up a blocky crack before heading up big moves on round holds until a crimpy crux near a leftward traverse on good holds to the anchor. A true endurance route that’s a little easier if you can hand jam. Highly Recommended.

Length: 29 metres
Bolts: 11
Location: Left side of Air Voyage Wall. Short scramble to base.


For the Tick-List

Crime of the Century 5.11c in Squamish
Gooseberry 5.8 in Banff
Pennylane 5.9 in Squamish
Slab Alley 5.9 in Squamish
Exasperator 5.10c in Squamish
Five Val-David routes in Quebec
Northeast Face 5.6 of Ha Ling in Canmore
Slab Alley 5.9 in Squamish 
The Colossus 5.11 and Titon Crack 5.10 in Ontario
Bottom Line 5.12 in Skaha
Les Grands Galets 5.12d at Cap Trinité, Quebec
Polar Circus WI5 700m in Rockies
The Monument 5.12a Trad in Ontario
The Scottish Gully WI2 100m in Canmore
Red Arete 5.13 in Colorado
Life on Earth 5.10 in Squamish

Lead photo: Andrew Funk of Becca Frangos