La Pomme d’Or is on Mont de l’Equerre in Hautes-gorges de la rivière Malbaie, Quebec. The first ascent of the 350-metre WI5+ was by Kurt Winkler and Jim Tierney in March 1980.
In 1985, Italians Renato Casarotto, Guido Ghigi and Gian Carlo Grassi made an early repeat of the famous ice route. In 1989, Guy Lacelle made the first solo ascent of the massive route.
The first few pitches are often WI4 and the ice steepens higher up. The final section offers a number of lines, from WI4+ to WI5+. No rock gear is necessary. Watch a March 6, 2018, ascent below.
It is 30 kilometres from the road and takes more than a day to complete car to car. No snowmobiles are allowed, so climbers must use skis or snowshoes. There is no cell service and many climbers bring a SPOT-style message device.
La Pomme d’Or is about 2.5 hours east of Quebect City and the nearest town is Malbaie. All climbers must have an access permit to climb the route, which takes about a week to get.
It costs $10/night and you can stay for up to eight days. There are no fires allowed, so bring a stove.