You probably haven’t heard of New Zealand’s Matt Bush, but if you like bold ascents, then he should be on your radar.
Climb New Zealand has published a number of short films of Bush climbing and they wrote a little something to go a long with the first one:
The hold, more of a wrinkle in the rock really, is as deep as a fingernail. It’s wide enough for five fingertips to be jammed together, three from his left hand, two from his right.
As he dangles there, relying on five half-fingertips – the ground waiting 25 m below, the valley floor 100 m below that and his right foot resting on a smudge of support – his left foot creeps out sideways, blindly seeking a vital hold hidden under a rocky lip.
It’s a critical, committing move. There’s no rope. Just the climber pressed into the smooth brown rock. Some birds. Sun. Air. And in this particular position, not much of a second chance. As he levers off his left foot and reaches up for a solid left-hand hold, Bush never felt freer.