Jeremy Collins and Jarod Sickler recently made the first ascent of Moonshadow, a new 5.11 next the classic Moonlight Buttress in Zion. It climbs the large corner to the right of Moonlight.

In 1971, Mike Weiss and Jeff Lowe made the first ascent of Moonlight and it quickly became the must-climb route in Zion. Over a decade ago, Alex Honnold free-soloed the steep 5.12 free route.

Moonshadow is a 300-metre 5.11b that will surely become an often-repeated moderate that has protection bolts where you need them. You still need a big rack of gear and a strong head for sandstone gear climbing. Collins, a well-known artist who’s work has been displayed at the Banff Mountain Film Festival, said, “I couldn’t be more pleased to open this route in one of my favorite places.”

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