Home > International

New Hard Mixed Route in Colorado

The sending duo of Jesse Huey and Ryan Vachon are no strangers to hard mixed routes. This is the first of 2015 for the two Colorado-based climbers.

Huey and Vachon climbed the new Subterfuge on Camp Bird Road near Ouray, Colorado on Jan.13, 2015. Vachon recently placed seventh at the Ouray Ice Festival.

Ouray Ice Fest 2015 Results

Huey updated his Facebook with, “Say what?! New three-pitch Stanley Headwall style route in Ouray? Vachon and I took the stoke to all new levels this morning putting together our new route just to the right of the Talisman.”

Looking down at Jesse Huey coming up pitch two  Photo Ryan Vachon from Huey's Facebook
Looking down at Jesse Huey coming up pitch two Photo Ryan Vachon from Huey’s Facebook

Subterfuge means an artifice or expedient used to evade a rule, escape a consequence or hide something.

The route is to the right of the classic Talisman. Subterfuge has three pitches: The first pitch of Talisman to an M7 and then a WI6. The M7 is a potential sandbag judging by the winking emoticon next to the grade.

Watch Jesse Huey on the Real Big Drip in the Rockies

The new pitch two is described as such on Mountain Project: Look for a thin seem and a single bolt leading to a hanging corner (gear) and a overhang. At the corner, move left below the roof to a blind bolt just left of the corner around the arete. Climb overhanging rock protected by two more bolts with increasing difficulty to thin ice and a small stance. It is possible to continue on up the steep ice, but this stance was used by the first ascentionists (belay off ice screws).

Supterfuge  Photo Jesse Huey
Supterfuge Photo Jesse Huey