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Scotland, New Routes

January, 2014, a Scottish Winter.

The Giant, First Winter Ascent

On December 29, the father and son team of Doug and Uisdan Hawthorn made the first winter ascent of The Giant on Creag an Dubh Loch. The 200 m vertical corner on Central Gully Wall had been stared at by winter climbers for years. Difficult E3 in summer, ice formed on the route during an exceptionally poor weather-spell. Conditions on the route diminished and repeat attempts failed to get up the route.

Source: Scottishwinter.com

The Giant on Creag an Dubh Loch Photo Robin Clothier
The Giant on Creag an Dubh Loch Photo Robin Clothier

Coire na Banachdaich, New Route

A new grade IV, 5, gully was climbed by Mike Lates and Jim Wylie. The climbers had a small rack, only two slings and one nut, as they were not expecting to climb.

Jim Wylie seconding Photo Mike Lates
Jim Wylie seconding Photo Mike Lates

Willow Ridge, First Ascent

Andy Nisbet and Susan Jensen made the first ascent of Willow Ridge, IV, 4, 120 m, in Coire Garbhlach.

Susan Jensen climbing Widow Ridge  Photo Andy Nisbet
Susan Jensen climbing Willow Ridge Photo Andy Nisbet

Sword of Damocles, Second Ascent

Doug and Uisdean Hawthorn made the second ascent of Sword of Damocles on Broad Terrace Wall. Doug had made the first winter ascent of the E2 chimney-line in excellent mixed conditions with Iain Small in February 2010. The route was climbed all on ice at Scottish grade, VII, 7.

Doug Hawthorn on the crux pitch of Sword of Damocles Photo Uisdean Hawthorn
Doug Hawthorn on the crux pitch of Sword of Damocles Photo Uisdean Hawthorn

Source: Scottishwinter.com

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