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Paul McSorley and Jesse Huey’s Big New Norway Ice Route

Canadians Jon Walsh and Paul McSorley were among a few of the world’s top ice climbers, including Jesse Huey, who visited Norway’s Senja Island in February.

The climbers sampled some of the island’s biggest mixed routes including Finnammen M9+ and Finnkona WI6+.

After a period of poor conditions, things lined up for an attempt on Brietinden, Senja’s highest peak at only 1,000 metres, which has been dubbed Norway’s “Scottish Wall.”

The wall has notoriously poor protection, but there are no bolts. Ines Papert and Thomas Senf had climbed Crazy Maze in the centre of the wall and Sjur Nesheim and his partner had put up Fantasia using a 150-metre rope.

McSorley and Huey teamed up for an ascent of the big line on the left side of Brietinden.

Read About The Ice Princess

Jesse Huey approaching Brietinden  Photo Paul McSorley
Jesse Huey approaching Brietinden. The Ice Princess is the far left line. Photo Paul McSorley

“Nesheim explained this tactic was crucial because there is a general lack of protection and belays are hard to find at regular intervals,” wrote McSorley on his blog.

“We settled on a route at the left side and blasted up amazing nevé and mixed climbing for seven pitches (two of those involved extensive simul-climbing for reasons noted above) totalling 450 metres. The difficulties were not too severe M6+ AI 4+ but the thin, runnout ice and rock overlaps were consistently spicy.”

Jesse Huey on the runout Ice Princess on Brietinden  Photo Paul McSorley
Jesse Huey on the runout Ice Princess on Brietinden Photo Paul McSorley