Robert Jasper and his hard M12 trad route
One year ago, Robert Jasper climbed a number of hard new mixed routes in Switzerland. He climbed Ritter der Kokosnuss M12, WI5 and Flying Circus M10 using a combination of trad gear and pitons.
The acceptance of drilled holds (using a power drill to create pick holes) seems to be the new norm in many places. These routes did not use a power drill to create pick holes. Drilling pick holes has taken on the name “pegboarding” and is popular in Canada, the States and Europe. Whereas manufacturing holds for rock climbing is unethical, in mixed climbing it seems to have little resistance with winter climbers.
For a slightly outdated, but good read on whether hard mixed climbing and dry-tooling is influencing high-standard alpinism, check this out:
Robert Jasper – Ritter der Kokosnuss from Hans Hornberger on Vimeo.