The Snowbird Glacier and its Winter Routes

Mount Patterson, 3,197 m, is part of the Waputik Range in Alberta. 

Mount Patterson towers almost 1,500 metres above the Icefields Parkway. Between the bulk of the peak and a high outlier to the northwest, there is a smoothly contoured line of moraine which was left following the last advance of the Snowbird Glacier which fills a very large cirque on the north east side of the mountain. One of the most photographed glaciers in the Rockies, it flows over the rock with wings spread. The mountain is named for John Duncan Patterson, a founding member of the Alpine Club of Canada, he became its third president in 1914.  It was first climbed in 1924, by F.V. Field and W.O. Field who were guided by Edward Feuz.

The Snowbird Glacier was climbed in 1967, by K. Baker, C. Locke, L. MacKay, C. Scott and D. Vockeroth. The East Face was climbed in 1973, by J. Firth and U. Kallen. In 1980, the face was climbed in winter. The East Ridge is a trade route among guides.

The lower tier of rock, below the wings of the Snowbird Glacier, is home to some of the Rockies most classic winter mixed routes.

Left of the glacier tongue is The Shadow, VI, WI6+R, M6, 220 m; Rip Tide,VI, WI6/7, 225 m; and Tsunami, VI, WI5, M5, 300 m; and on the right is Rocket Baby, VI, M8+, WI5+X; and Rocket Man, VI, M7+ WI5+, 350 m.

Here is a video by Joshua Lavigne from the first ascent of Tsunami.

Source: Raphael Slawinski, Alpinist