Chris Sharma has onsighted countless 5.13s over the years, but it’s more common to see him trying hard on steep rock than on a technical slab.
In this video, Sharma onsights the Pine Creek test-piece called Ecstasy, which was first climbed in 1990 by Tom Herbert. It heads past 16 or 17 bolts up a line of small edges using the arete. “Chris casually walked up to my four year 5.13a slab project and dispatched it with minimal effort while hanging the draws, hardly resting at any of the crucial rests,” said Tristan Bradford, who took the video below.
“He then bolted and sent the right side of the arete and called it 5.14b/c. Instead of standing on slabby feet on his new FA, you are death palming the arete and fighting your way up it. Much more overhanging.”