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Do These New Roadside Ontario Moderate Multi-Pitch Routes at the Ramparts

Several all-bolted routes follow solid rock not far from the road that leads to Riverside Wall

The Ramparts, near Kynoch in Algoma, offer some less intimidating objectives than the nearby Riverside and Eyeball Crags. Although there are only a handful of lines completed, there’s potential for routes of all grades.

All routes are bolted. The same special access considerations that apply to Riverside apply to the Ramparts. The cliff is accessed by a flat, 300-metre trail just past the prominent Fortress outcrop, at the first bend in the river past the hydro lines on the road to Riverside.

Steep rock at the Ramparts

The two and three pitch lines, Mr. Marshmallow and Approach Shoe Express, both 5.7, offer good introductions to multi-pitch climbing. Doctor Stoppage, a steep face climb that follows a wide crack without using it, and Six Feet Under, both 5.10, make for more challenging, but nonetheless well-bolted climbing. Dirty Boxing is the prominent 5.11 bolted arete right of Doctor Stoppage.

As with other crags in the area, the beautiful Algoma forest setting is beautiful, with plentiful rare wildlife settings. It is also remote from help with little to no cell-phone reception, so parties should be self-reliant.

Camping on Crown Land is plentiful in the area. Local activist, Danylo Darewych and Gripped editor are preparing an article on climbing in the Kynoch area for October Gripped, including the spectacular three-to six-pitch routes on nearby Riverside.

Reg Smart on the FA of Doctor Stoppage 5.10b at the Ramparts. Photo by Brandon Pullan


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