With a few weeks of consistently cold weather, Squamish climbers were treated with one of the best ice seasons in years. New and old ice climbs formed throughout the Howe Sound.
Sam Eastman and Niall Hamill found and climbed a difficult and steep new three-pitch mixed route up granite cracks and ice near Barbarian Wall above town. “The upper pitches are actual overhanging ice climbing through a big ass roof at a moderate grade,” said Eastman.
Hamill had just climbed The Apron in mixed conditions and Eastman was fresh off the first ascent of Medusa in Squamish Valley with Tim Emmett. Eastman wants to give a “shoutout to Jia Condon for spotting the ice, and Luke Neufeld for the beta.”
Eastman and Hamill called their new 100-metre-ish line Jungle Warfare and graded it M6 WI5. The pitches go WI4, M6/WI5 and 5.9. “If you decide to do this route, try to hook instead of swinging at the upper daggers,” said Eastman. “The belay is exposed and the daggers are fragile. Lot’s of good hooks and mushrooms for feet. Several bolts are on the crux pitch. Bring a small selection of cams and some screws. A drill could be handy. We didn’t have many bolts.”