A new five-pitch 5.10b traverse called Forgive My Trespass has been added to the Papoose in Squamish. Established this year by John Howe and Penny Cooper, the line adds a cool adventure to one of Howe Sound’s lesser-visited granite walls.
The FA team said, “Bolting a traverse well is tricky, so a considerable effort was extended to ensure the second can do the harder moves before unclipping from protection. However, prussiking skills for both the leader and second will be an asset if things were to go wrong in some locations. The new bolts placed for this route have charcoal coloured hangers.”
The Papoose has a number of local classic lines, such as Hairpin 5.10a trad, Mushroom 5.9 trad and Centrefold 5.10b trad. Over the past few years, climbers have been retro-scrubbing old and new lines. Hanging Gardens is now a clean 5.10+ that is reportedly very good with a hard bolted slab crux.
Forgive My Trespass starts with a 30-metre 5.10a called Mercury Vapour that leads into Transit of Venus, a 30-metre 5.10a. Pitch three starts with bolt and then moves down and left and back up at 5.10b for 35 metres. Pitch four is a foot traverse left for 30 metres at 5.7 to an anchor. The last pitch climbs another 25 metres to a walk off. You can find a full topo here.