Skaha is Quiet this Weekend, Gets New 5.11+ and a Climbing Festival
Excellent early season conditions can be found on east and south-facing cliffs throughout the park
Photo by: Brandon Pullan on March 5
A new 5.11+ has been added to Skaha as less than a few dozen climbers visited the park on Sat. March 5, likely due to the gates to the parking area being closed. Temps this weekend almost hit double digits, which means T-shirt weather when climbing in the sun.
Casey Green made the first ascent of The Consultant, a 10-bolt 20-metre line at Behemoth and suggested 5.11d, the project was started by Denise Bacon. As Green reported, “Starts to the left of the two bolted crack-like routes where the trail first meets the wall. Not sure about the grade so feedback is appreciated. Seems like a pretty good line. Lots of fun moves.”
Behemoth has several fun climbs with potential for more new routes. It’s found close to Shortcut and Foreplay at the north-end of the Skaha cliffs. Some of the climbs include, Stem Cell Therapy 5.10b, No Loitering 5.11d and Get a Move On 5.12a.
Skaha is one of B.C.’s most popular climbing areas, thanks to its location in the south Okanagan above the town of Penticton. In 2007, the climber’s parking lot was closed, but thankfully MEC stepped in with $250,000 to help purchase land and build the current parking area.
However, that parking area is up a long and steep hill, which is currently closed until later in March, which means climbers have to park at the bottom of the hill and hike in. “The crags felt empty and you had your choice of classics to climb,” said Brandon Pullan.
“There were a few patches of snow that were easily avoided along the approach trails, and the rock was warm by 9 a.m. A few holds and most of the cracks were seeping.”
The first-ever Skaha Climbers Festival will be taking place on May 28 and May 29 to raise money for the Skaha Bluffs Park Watch, which employs people to watch the parking lot to prevent theft. Read more about the Park Watch and donate here.
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