17-Year-Old Kai Whaley Climbs Sleepwalker V16
Mellow just released send footage of the young phenom's ascent of the classic Red Rock boulder
On November 24, 17-year-old American climber Kai Whaley repeated Sleepwalker V16 (8C+) in Red Rock, Nevada. Established by Jimmy Webb in December 2018, Sleepwalker has since become one of the most repeated V16s in the world, seeing ascents from Daniel Woods, Nalle Hukkataival, Drew Ruana, Matt Fultz, and Ryuichi Murai, among others.
In sending Sleepwalker, Whaley skipped the grades V14 and V15. In October, he sent his first V13, the cool lowball Slasher in Joe’s Valley. In early November, he climbed the five-star Masterpiece V13, also in Joe’s Valley. After sending Sleepwalker, he climbed Meadowlark Lemon Stand V13 in Red Rock and Booka Booka Booka V13 in Moe’s Valley. His Booka Booka Booka session was a big one. On top of climbing that V13, he also redpointed Show of Hands Sit V12, Show of Hands Stand V10, and The Thing V10, and flashed Loose Cannon V9.
“I’m beyond words for this one,” said Whaley on his 8a.nu after sending Sleepwalker. “It has a big place in my heart cause I grew up in Vegas and watched Jimmy during the process of the FA on this boulder. I’m so psyched to finally be strong enough to put this one down.” Mellow just released send footage of Whaley’s ascent, which you can watch below.
There is some debate about the grade of Sleepwalker. While most climbers have suggested V16 for the climb – including the climbers listed above – Zander Waller said V15 is a more appropriate grade with his beta.
“The beta I used is much easier than previous betas, and I don’t think that it can possibly warrant a V16 grade,” he said via Instagram after his October 2023 ascent. “Admittedly, I have almost no experience on difficult boulders, but for me to skip V14 and V15 and then do a V16 in less than four sessions seems outlandish. I’d love for other people my size to try my beta and see what they think; for now, I am confident that the boulder is V15, potentially even low-end. Regardless, Sleepwalker is an amazing climb and I’m grateful for the opportunity to try it.”
Zander Waller sends Sleepwalker
Jimmy Webb’s FA of Sleepwalker
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