Amity Warme Climbs Hard Finger Crack in Joshua Tree
Stingray 5.13d is a steep finger crack splitter – Watch Warme cruise the route
In early February, pro climber and dietician Amity Warme sent the Joshua Tree test piece, Stingray 5.13d. Located in the Wall Street Mill Area of Wonderland South, the route is a splitter overhanging finger crack with painful jams and lousy feet. Mike Paul first freed Stingray on top-rope back in 1988. Shortly afterwards, Hidetaka Suzuki became the first person to successfully lead the route. CAMP recently released a film on Warme sending the route, which you can watch below.
After sending the line back in February, Warme had this to say about the route on Instagram: “This classic 5.13d crack starts out with powerful moves between steep finger locks. You place a piece of gear right before launching into the crux, then execute a dynamic sequence of precise jams for over a body length before pausing to place another piece of gear. A few more hard moves bring you to a stance where you can shake out briefly. The angle of the rock eases gradually after that but the building pump, sequential jams, and balancy final move mean it’s truly not over until you clip the chains!! ”
Warme’s trad climbing resume is seriously impressive. In Yosemite, she’s freed the big walls El Corazon 5.13b, Father Time 5.13b, Golden Gate 5.13a, and Freerider 5.13a – including a single day ascent of the route. She’s sent many hard single-pitch trad climbs with highlights being a repeat of All Systems Go 5.13c in Sedona, the first female ascent of Jonathan Siegrist’s Enter the Dragon 5.13+R in The Fins, and just earlier this year, a repeat of Hazel Findlay’s Tainted Love 5.13d in Squamish.
Amity Warme climbs Stingray 5.13d
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