American climber Anna Hazelnutt just released a new short film detailing her redpoint of Spank the Monkey 5.13dR in Smith Rock, Oregon in late October 2022. The climb is located on the iconic Monkey Face, and follows a steep arete where the east and north faces of the rock feature meet.
Hazelnutt shared the news on Oct. 23, saying, “Friday I sent Full Spank! Very challenging lead, I would say. Had to continually fight my own doubting mind the whole way up cause the climb is so darn scary and it was a bit too cold for my liking, so although the rawk was sticky, I couldn’t quite feel my fingers or toes. But alas, she goes.” The lower half of the route, Spank the Monkey 5.12aR, was first ascended by Smith Rock legend Alan Watts. The hardest sections are well-protected with bolts, but elsewhere there are long run-outs across the sharp arete.
The extension of the route, Spank the Monkey 5.13dR, was first put up by Tommy Caldwell. This pitch also features big run-outs between bolts, only this time the climbing is significantly harder on small pockets and pinches that weave across the arete. Climbers sometimes use double ropes to reduce the risk of compromising their rope on the arete’s edge during a fall.
Hazelnutt is no stranger to technical, spicy routes. In fall 2021, she sent Once Upon a Time in the Southwest E9 6c, a bold, steep slab trad route at Dyers Lookout in the U.K. Earlier this year, she made the first female ascent of Once Upon a Time in the Southwest’s neighbour, Walk of Life E9 6c. The 50-metre line features crimpy holds, tiny gear placements, and big run-outs. A new film in the Brit Rock Film Tour 2022 titled Queen Lines covers Hazelnutt’s season in the U.K. with climbing partner and Wide Boyz member Tom Randall. The film focuses on her sends of Quarryman E8 7a in the Llanberis slate quarries in North Wales and Walk of Life E9 6c.