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Chris Sharma Says “Don’t Lose The Joy”

In a new interview, Chris Sharma talks about climbing, ego and about his connection to climbing as he ages

When Chris Sharma was 14 years old, he won the U.S.A. bouldering nationals and soon after that established Necessary Evil 5.14c. He went on to win several world cups. He’s known for being the world’s first climber to redpoint 5.15b with California’s Jumbo Love in 2008, one of the first to climb a 5.15a with Biographie in 2001, and the second to climb 5.15c with La Dura Dura in 2013.

Sharma established the world’s first 5.15a deep water solo with Es Pontas 2007, and first 5.15b deep water solo with Alasha in 2017. In 2015, he opened the Sharma Climbing BCN gym in Barcelona, and in 2019, he opened one of Europe’s largest climbing gyms in Madrid. His send of Biographie 5.15a in France was at the time considered the first 5.15 ever climbed.

“Climbing has been my life since I was 12 years old, and has allowed me to discover the most beautiful places in the world,” Sharma said. “My specialty is hard new routes. This pursuit provides me with concrete goals in life and allows me to channel my energy. It’s my own personal way of being a part of society. I think it’s really important in my progression for climbing to stay excited and feel like you’re doing new things, and not get stuck in a rut.”

In this interview, filmed at the International Climbing Film Festival in Teplice, Sharma talks about his ability to manage his ego, the art of finding joy and balance in life as he ages. He also talks about being disqualified from a competition in 2001 for having THC in his system.

Chris Sharma Interview