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Climbing Legend Says “Training for Bouldering was Just Absurd”

Jerry Moffatt talks about the generation of climbers that started to incorporate training and rest days into their routines

Legendary climber Jerry Moffatt talks about the progression of bouldering and about some of his classic first ascents in Britain. When he started climbing, training for bouldering wasn’t a thing, but over the years he helped change that.

In 1992, Moffatt established Canada’s first 5.13d with The Big Kahuua at Lion’s Head. He was the first climber to onsight 5.12c, 5.12d and 5.13a and climbed some of the first 5.14+ routes. He won several comps during the 1980s and established V12 and V13 problems.

In 1987, he travelled to France and the U.S.A. where he repeated the three established 5.14a’s in each country: Le Rage de Vivre, Le Minumum, La Spectre des Surmutant; and Scarface, White Wedding, To Bolt Or Not To Be. In 1991, he opened Britain’s first indoor climbing centre called The Foundry in Sheffield. He’s written several books on mental preparation for competition climbing.

Also in this film from Wedge Climbing are the authors of The Climbing Bible Stian Christophersen and Martin Mobråten.

Jerry Moffatt on Training and More