Jack Tackle Pushed Extreme Alpinism

Jack Tackle was a van dweller before he became a climber, but on that first day, he was hooked. He loved the anarchy of the small fringe activity that was climbing, and he would go on to channel that anarchy into proud first ascents on Waddington, as well as throughout the Alaska Range.

Tackle has made the first ascents of Denali’s Isis Face, Mount Hunter’s Diamond Arête, Foraker’s Viper Ridge, and Mount Barille’s Cobra Pillar. Expeditions and ascents include peaks in the Canadian Coast Range, and Mount Siguniang, China. His expeditions include Everest West Expedition, Biafo Spires, Uzam Braak, and Biantha Braak (Ogre), in Pakistan, Cordilleras Blanca and Huayhuash in Peru and Kashmir in India He made the first ascent on Elevator Shaft, Mount Johnson, Alaska, Arctic Discipline on the north face of Kennedy in the Yukon.

Tackle’s other first ascents include The Imperfect Aparition with Fabrizio Zangrilli on Huntington, and the North Face of Mount Thunder via Tangled up in Blue, and three new routes. He’s served as a guide in the Tetons for the Exum Mountain Guides since 1982 and is a former three term Director and Treasurer of the American Alpine Club. He is the recipient of the American Alpine Club’s coveted Underhill Award for climbing achievement (1999), the recipient of the Trento Film Festival and Italian Alpine Club award, “Genziana Giovanne” (1999), and the American Alpine Club’s Sowles Award (2003).

Dive into this film to hear Tackle’s reflections on his mountain life, his first ascents, and what motivated him to keep pushing his technical edge.

Jack Tackle and Alaska