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La Révolutionnaire V16 in Font Repeated by Niky Ceria

This is at least the fourth ascent of the problem, which is one of the most difficult in Europe

Niccolò “Niky” Ceria has repeated La Révolutionnaire V16 in Fontainebleau, a steep and powerful problem first climbed in 2017 by Charles Albert barefoot. It’s also been repeated by Ryohei Kameyama and Simon Lorenzi.

“I had a lot of fun on this one,” said Ceria. “I used to try it just before rest days. The movements (most of them very enjoyable) are all about tension. The quietness of the area was a plus.”

The start of the problem is starts in a tight area where Ceria said he had difficulty getting established. “I first did it from a version which is a mix between the old (2016) and the new (2017) starting position,” he said.

“I came back to Gros Sablons and I opted to play on the proper start once again. I figured out a slightly different heel hook placement. This was a little change that allowed my body to fit into the start hole without touching the rocks around.”

Ceria has repeated other V16s and established hard problems that he’s yet to grade. Watch his second ascent of Ephyra V16 below. La Révolutionnaire is one of the world’s most difficult boulders, for a list of others visit here.

Riverside is a 2021 film that documents Ceria’s journey to establish high problems in Italy, most involving tricky toe-hook and heel-hook beta, big throws and technical beta. The film was put together by Andrea Cossu.

“I had the luck to live the entire process from A to Z on these boulders,” said Ceria. “I found most of them in 2019 after many miles of hiking. After having explored them, and selected the best lines, I started to get more into the process: I cleaned them and started to visualize the moves, the falls and the holds.”

Ephyra V16