In May 2022, Mary Eden, also known as TradPrincess on social media, sent one of the most famous offwidth crack climbs in the world—Belly Full of Bad Berries 5.13 in Indian Creek. A new film of her ascent was released today.
The climb is an extremely proud tick for any offwidth climber. What makes Eden’s send extra special, however, is that she climbed the crack straight-in, with her hands above her feet. Climbers before her have had to climb the extremely overhanging wide crack in an inverted position, with their feet above their hands.
Eden had previous experience using straight-in technique on cracks typically approached in an inverted style. She applied this unique skillset to Belly Full of Bad Berries, making the climb look almost effortless.
To execute this straight-in technique, she relies on calf lock jamming. She gets her leg above her waist, and treats her foot and calf as if it were an additional set of hands. By twisting her leg just right to get the calf lock, while also supporting her weight with her opposite leg down low, she’s able to bump up her hands on even very overhanging terrain.
You can compare Eden’s unique style in the newly released send film below to others who have climbed in a more traditional inverted style including Mari Salvesen and Adam Ondra.
Mary Eden on Belly Full of Bad Berries 5.13