Home > Profiles

New Footage of Seb Bouin Sending The Dream 5.15b

He was one of the world's top sport climbers of 2019

Seb Bouin is one of the world’s top sport climbers with over a dozen 5.15 climbs to his name. Last fall, he took a road trip to Albania where he found unclimbed walls to bolt and a an old Adam Ondra project.

“We usually go to places where the climbing is already developed,” he said when talking about his pre-trip decisions. So he and his mom and two dogs got in the van and drove up the coast of France to Brar, outside of Tirana, the capital of Albania.

Bouin was one of the best rock climbers in the world last year as The Dream was his fourth 5.15b and seventh 5.15 in 2019. Three of his hardest climbs last year were Mamichula 5.15b, Move 5.15b/c and La Rage D’Adam 5.15b/c first ascent.

In 2020, Bouin is continuing his send train with a routes like Biographie 5.15a, but he’s been mostly focused on his mega project called Rhodes Empire.

View this post on Instagram

Biographie 9a+ / 5.15a ✔️ • When you got this jug ?. After falling three times after the upper crux, I am happy to send this historical blue line. It was my first "real" trip to Ceuse. I climbed there few weekends when I was younger, and then I never came back. I had other projects for this periods of the year. And I guess as the climbing style is not really what I am use to do, I was more psyche to go where I felt strong. I am more from the big overhangs and steep stuff with tufas and sloppers. I had to adapt myself to this crag and these little open pockets. It took me some times to find the flow. But at the end I loved this process. It was something new for me. It was a good challenge to include Ceuse and Biographie as first French and world 9a+ (5.15a) in my Vintage Rock Tour. Soon the ?️ report in my third episode of the Vintage Rock Tour. Pic by @sambie_photography ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Biographie 9a+ / 5.15a ✔️ • Quand tu attrapes ce bac ?. Après être tombé 3 fois après le crux sommital, je suis content d'enchaîner cette ligne historique. C'était mon premier vrai trip à Ceuse. J'y avais grimpé quelques weekends étant plus jeune, mais je n'étais jamais revenu depuis. J'avais souvent d'autres projets pour cette période de l'année. Et il faut dire que Ceuse n'est pas vraiment dans mon style de prédilection. J'imagine que l'on priorise les falaises et les projets ou l'on se sent fort. Je suis plus habitué à grimper dans le gros dévers avec des colos ou des plats. Il a fallu que je m'adapte à cette falaise et ces petits trous ouverts. J'ai mis un peu de temps à trouver le flow, mais c'était vraiment cool d'essayer quelque chose de nouveau. Et puis j'ai vraiment aimé Ceuse, peut être que je me mettrai un plus gros projet ici dans les prochaines années. C'était un bon challenge d'inclure Biographie, premier 9a+ du monde, et Ceuse dans mon Vintage Rock Tour. Bientôt le reportage ?️ pour mon troisième épisode du VRT. Photo de @sambie_photography @blackdiamond @eb_climbing @natureclimbing @altissimoescalade @yodel.agency @naitup.hussarde

A post shared by Seb Bouin (@sebbouin) on

The Dream 5.15b

Check out the latest buyer's guide:

The Best Climbing Gear According to Our Editors – April

Every month we're bringing you our favourite gear so you can complete your climbing kit with the latest and best stuff out there