Noah Wheeler Climbing Shaolin V17
Watch newly released send footage of the American's second V17 ascent
On March 7, Noah Wheeler made the second ascent of Shaolin V17 (9A) in Red Rock, Nevada. Established by Sean Bailey in February 2024, Shaolin was the United State’s third V17 after Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker and Shawn Raboutou’s Megatron. Mellow just released a four-minute about Wheeler’s Shaolin ascent, which you can watch below.
The sandstone boulder links a V13/14 starting sequence into a single-move V12/13 into a final throw that clocks in around V11/12. Shaolin is Wheeler’s second V17, his first being Return of the Sleepwalker, which he topped in January this year. Last year, he completed Sleepwalker, which he called V15/16, as well as Drew Ruana’s Insomniac V16 in Lincoln Lake, Colorado. Since sending Shaolin, the 22-year-old has topped three V14s and two V15s.
“Rock climbing is a process of self discovery,” said Wheeler after his ascent on Instagram. “When trying at my limit, I’m forced to delve into my most minute intricacies and unknown dimensions. To intuit the exact capacity and choice of my body in any given on-wall situation. To develop that strange and unique ritual that best facilitates blood flow and robust feel. To master, often manipulate, my determination, anticipation, and anxiety.
“Shaolin forced self-mastery more than any boulder prior. Although I could stick the crux move (an accurate V13-level left-hand throw) 75% of the time in [isolation], climbing a stout V13 sequence into this was a whole other beast entirely. I was forced to learn and utilize my strongest grip position on the crux hold, to understand exactly how much force and pressure I could or should generate through my feet. To conceptualize and calibrate a given go in relation to all other experiences on the boulder.
“Once this move was eventually done from the start, only after I understood my body enough to enforce pre-session and mid-try confidence did I complete the last thruchy V11-level throw and take it to the top. An hour later, invigorated by my experience, I managed to make my way up Trieste Sit V14/15 as well.
“Coming into Shaolin, I sought to prioritize my enjoyment of the process in seeking the final goal of sending. I leave Shaolin with a different goal – although I climb to master the boulder, I do so in order to carve towards a mastery of my understanding of self.”
Noah Wheeler’s second ascent of Shaolin V17
Sean Bailey’s FA of Shaolin V17
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