Olympic Climbing Medalist Stands to Save Classic Utah Boulders

The film Home Crag illuminates the three perspectives why Little Cottonwood Canyon should be protected

Gripped January 18, 2022

On June 25, 2021, the Utah Department of Transportation (UDOT) released two transportation proposals to address winter traffic congestion in Utah’s Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). One would construct the world’s longest gondola to carry riders to the top of the canyon and the other would widen the road by adding bus-only shoulder lanes. The gondola and buses would service only ski resorts at the top of the canyon and would not stop at climbing areas.

“Let’s preserve the incredible beauty of LCC with less costly and lower impact transportation solutions, such as increased public transit without road widening, that serve all canyon users,” said Salt Lake Climber Alliance’s executive director Julia Geisler.

Little Cottonwood’s climbing dates as far back as 1961, when Ted Wilson and Bob Stout established the first documented route at The Gate Buttress. Both of UDOT’s proposals threaten iconic roadside bouldering resources and will impact the overall climbing experience in LCC – a canyon that has and continues to forge the character of Salt Lake City’s climbing community.

“Little Cottonwood Canyon is a special climbing area with a rich history and incredible access,” said Pitt Grewe, Director of the Utah Division of Recreation. “The combination of high quality climbing, quick access near a large city, and continued investment from the state to improve access and safety truly make it a premier climbing area in the country.”

Gnarly Nutrition’s Home Crag, filmed and edited by Headlamp Studios, features rock climber and Olympic medalist Nathaniel Coleman, Julia Geisler and USA Climbing’s CEO Marc Norman. It talks about the three unified perspectives on why the rock climbing in LCC deserves protection, and illustrates why the canyon is like none other.

“As the deadline for decision comes closer for Little Cottonwood, I hope this film can inspire the users and stewards of the canyon to stand up in a big way,” said Nathaniel Coleman. “The Wasatch Range offers so much inspiration to its patrons. Let’s show our appreciation and respect for it by protecting Little Cottonwood and the historic climbing it holds.”

Preserving our climbing areas for future generations, safe access and with the intentions to keep them wild should be on the minds of all climbers.