Paige Claassen Repeats Algorithm 5.14d in Idaho

Paige Claassen has made the second ascent of the aesthetic and vertical route Algorithm 5.14d in Idaho.

“Yesterday was a big surprise, made the second ascent of Algorithm, my goal for September,” wrote Claassen on Instagram.

“Fueled by $4 Pocatello food truck burritos, I spent six days whittling down the intricate footwork of Alogrithm, in addition to 2 days in May. What a rad line. Shallow pockets, delicate feet, and a few big spans add up to 40 meters of thought provoking climbing.”

Yesterday was a big surprise – made the second ascent of Algorithm, my goal for September! Fueled by $4 Pocatello food truck burritos, I spent 6 days whittling down the intricate footwork of Alogrithm, in addition to 2 days in May. What a rad line. Shallow pockets, delicate feet, and a few big spans add up to 40 meters of thought provoking climbing. Luckily I had @arjandekock and my friends cheering me on, as I very nearly fumbled the top "coral reef". But @tarakerzhner (whose photo you might rather look at than read this lengthy caption) told me to be a tropical fish, so I took her advice and swam to the chains. Luckily this was more of a dry ocean, as I'm relatively afraid of water. I think I was just as tired mentally as physically when I reached the chains – my absolute favorite style of climbing. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ Thanks for the vision @jonathansiegrist, such an incredible line up a very blank wall. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ ? @tarakerzhner

A post shared by Paige Claassen (@paigeclaassen) on Sep 3, 2018 at 10:24am PDT

Jon Siegrist made the first ascent of Algorithm 5.14d back in 2012, it’s still the hardest climb in the state.

Found on Discovery Wall in The Fins, Algorithm was bolted by Siegrist on his first visit to the area.

“The climb begins with a pumpy and cool 5.13a called Son of Discovery, before breaking dramatically right as the grips gradually decline to a sequential, powerful and very low percentage mid-height crux,” described Siegrist in his breakdown of the vertical line.

“One specific move in this crux thwarted me repeatedly. Pure difficulty was certainly an issue, but mainly it is characterized by an off balance, super accurate and long move.

“At best I was doing this move one of every three or four times from the hang. A few hard exit moves take you into easier terrain and the main rest.

“Above the rest, an ultra thin, beautiful headwall, 60 feet or more in length remains. The meat of this section is two well spaced bolts long and requires finger strength, creative thinking and a surprising amount of power. The final bolt is crimpy 5.13- terrain to the top, pulling up over 40 metres of rope to clip.”

Watch this great short film about Siegrist’s send.