Shauna Coxsey Climbing Mito V14
The Jun Shibanuma problem in Portugal was Coxsey's fifth of the grade
In early February, Shauna Coxsey made the first female ascent of Mito V14 (8B+) in Sintra in southern Portugal. Established by Jun Shibanuma in 2022, the problem saw a second ascent from Will Bosi last year. Coxsey’s sent the problem on her second session and her ascent is likely the third of the five-star problem. Mito V14 is a sit start to Mito V10, the stand start version of the problem. Wedge Climbing just released a film of Coxsey’s Mito V14 ascent, which you can watch below. The film also contains her top Jóia V11.
“This is one of the most impressive lines I’ve ever seen,” said Coxsey on Instagram. “A striking streak of barely holdable holds runs through the middle of a huge, otherwise blank, face on a massive boulder. It’s a majestic one for sure. Standing on top of this felt so good! The second half of last year had a lot going on for me. Some personal stuff I’m not ready to talk about, having shoulder surgery and loosing my longest sponsor all really knocked me. Grinding away and working my ass off for yet another come back was pretty savage. So doing this boulder sure means a lot. My 5th of the grade!”
Coxsey sent her first V14 way back in July 2014 when she made the first female ascent of New Base Line in Magic Wood, Switzerland. She went on a bouldering tear in 2024. In late February, she made the first ascent of Fotofobia Sit V14 in La Pedriza, Spain. She also sent Pin y Pon V13 while on her Spanish trip. Two months later she repeated Fat Lip V13 at Raven Tor and became the first woman to send V14 on British soil with her ascent of Ned Feehally’s The Boss.
In June 2024, she repeated Hazel Grace V14 (8B+) in Gotthard Pass, Switzerland. The line was established by Giuliano Cameroni in August 2017 at a grade of V15, which settled at V14 with subsequent ascents. The aesthetic boulder trends leftward across a seam to an arete topout in a beautiful alpine setting. She recently made the second ascent of the stout lowball Lupin V13 at Stanton in the Woods, U.K.
Shauna Coxsey on Mito V14
Jun Shibanuma’s FA of Mito V14
Will Bosi repeats Mito V14
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