Shawn Raboutou Breaks Down His Beta for Burden of Dreams V17
In a new video, he shares his micro-beta for one of the world's hardest boulder problems
Back in 2016, Nalle Hukkataival made the first ascent of the “Lappnor Project” in Finland. He named the problem Burden of Dreams and assigned it a difficulty of V17 (9A), making it the first problem in the world at the grade. It took him nearly four years to send the problem, and it didn’t see a repeat until April this year when Will Bosi made the coveted second ascent.
Burden of Dreams is a five-move crimp line on an 45-degree overhanging face that resembles board climbing. Everything about the problem is difficult. The holds are small and face in awkward directions, requiring very specific finger and thumb positions. The moves are long, especially to the final three-finger crimp, necessitating powerful, dynamic movement. And the foot holds are lousy demanding an immense amount of body tension. The boulder also sits in a somewhat obscure location with a short climbing season and finnicky conditions.
Over the past six months, another one of the world’s best boulderers, Shawn Raboutou, has spent considerable time working Burden of Dreams. On his first trip, he was able to complete all five moves in isolation as well as make a few links. He got heartbreakingly close on his most recent trip, as can be seen in the footage of his “best go” below:
Raboutou just released a new video breaking down the moves of Burden of Dreams. He goes over his micro-beta in detail – his individual finger positions, foot moves, finger swaps, and finding a balance between static and dynamic movement. You can watch the video below.
Raboutou is the first climber in the world to climb two V17’s. He had an incredible 2022 season, establishing V16’s F*ck the System and Story of 3 Worlds and V17’s Alphane and Megatron.
Shawn Raboutou on Burden of Dreams V17
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